Pheasant Plucking and Other Pastimes: Pheasant Four Ways

We live on the edge of the Surrey Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), a place that we enjoy and appreciate every day. It’s one of our local resources. Not quite so very local as Bob’s Hogs (just down at the end of our street) but very local still, the office of the Hampton Estate is about 3 miles from our door. In addition to acres and acres of permissive access routes affording hours of dog walking and horse riding opportunities, there we can get Hampton Estate Naturally Reared produce – their local natural meat sold direct from the farm – including fresh pheasant in season. 

I had picked up a brace (that’s two pheasants, I learned) and inspired by “Free range quail, smoked ham, Jerusalem artichoke, parmesan foam” from our recent meal at La Luna Modern Italian Restaurant which I reviewed in On the Fourth Day of Christmas and by BBC Masterchef contestant Annie Assheton’s Stuffed breast and braised leg of partridge with celeriac purée, Savoy cabbage and spiced breadcrumbs, John and I whipped up a little treasure which we quite simply called Pheasant Four Ways. And yes, of course, we used our Thermomix and its brilliant Varoma Steamer to prepare it!

Pheasant Four Ways is four dishes in one; four ways to use and serve all the bits of the bird that gave its life to feed us. I have great respect for what I eat and I hate waste so this dish is really right up my alley. It is composed of:

1. Braised leg of pheasant on a bed of Savoy cabbage
2. Roulade of pheasant breast with a sage and onion stuffing
3. Savoy cabbage bundles with a pheasant sausage stuffing
4. Deep-fried pheasant wings

And of course there is a sauce made from a reduction of the stock we made with the carcass, flavoured with garlic and ruby port.

So, are you ready? Let’s cook!

Pheasant Four Ways by Monsieur & Madame Thermomix
Serves two.

Ingredients
one pheasant, plucked

For the braised leg:
two carrots
two celery stalks
one onion
olive oil
aromatics: bay leaf; thyme; rosemary
salt and pepper to taste
a small handful of bacon lardons
a quarter head of Savoy cabbage, sliced
2 Tbsp Balsamic vinegar

For the roulades:
one slice of bread
4 or 5 sage leaves
one shallot, peeled
salt and pepper to taste
4 slices of Parma ham or similar thinly sliced cured ham
cling film/plastic wrap

For the Savoy cabbage bundles:
two large Savoy cabbage leaves
a small shallot or a quarter of an onion
salt, pepper and mixed spice

For the deep-fried wings:
oil for frying

Method

Joint the bird:

• Remove the wings and separate at the “elbow;” set aside
• Remove the leg quarters, keeping thigh and drumstick as a whole
• Lift the breast fillets and separate the mini fillets

Make a stock with the carcass, boiling it in water with carrot, onion and celery for about 30 minutes.

1.       Braised leg of pheasant on a bed of cabbage

1. Prepare a mirepoix by dicing carrot, onion and celery. Sauté in olive oil and transfer to a fireproof casserole dish.
2. Place the leg quarters and the four wing pieces on top of the mirepoix. Add water and a dash of white wine, to almost cover the mirepoix but not wetting the meat. (When braising meat or poultry it should be set on top of a liquid but never be submerged or wet itself.) Season. Bring to the boil over a moderate heat, then transfer to a slow oven (140° C) for 1 ½ to 2 hours.

2.       Roulade of pheasant breast with a sage and onion stuffing

1. Remove the skin from the pheasant breasts and place each one between two sheets of cling film/plastic wrap. Pound the breasts until they are thin, flat and three to four times their original size.
2. Peel the shallot and cut in half. Tear the slice of bread into four quarters. Add these to the Thermomix bowl with the sage leaves, then press and hold the Turbo button until 2 seconds is displayed. Season with salt and pepper. Scrape the sides of the bowl and process the mixture 10 seconds/Speed 10 to obtain a fine, sticky mixture.
3. Spread half of the stuffing mixture onto each pounded breast. Roll into a cylinder and then roll each cylinder in cling film/plastic wrap. Twist the ends to seal.
4. Place the two roulades on the top tray of the Varoma steamer. Weigh 800 g water into the Thermomix bowl. Place the Varoma on top of the bowl and steam the roulades for 20 minutes/Varoma setting/Speed 2.

3.       Savoy cabbage leaves with a pheasant sausage stuffing

1. Peel two large leaves from the cabbage; wash and cut out the central vein. Blanche the leaves in your boiling stock just until they are slightly pliable; remove and set aside.
2. Cut the shallot in half and drop it onto the running blades of your Thermomix running at Speed 7; turn off immediately. Scrape the sides of the bowl. Season with salt and pepper and add three good pinches of ground mixed spice.
3. Cut each of the two mini breast fillets into three pieces and drop them on the running blades of your Thermomix at Speed 7; turn off immediately.
4. Divide this sausage mixture in two and place on the blanched cabbage leaves. Roll into bundles.
5. Now carefully open the lid of the Varoma steamer and add the stuffed cabbage leaves, seam side down, to the top tray along with the roulades. There still should be about 10 minutes of the original steaming time left which will finish the roulades and cook the cabbage bundles without overcooking the leaves. When your Thermomix sings to you, turn it off, remove the Varoma steamer and place it on a plate to keep warm.

4.       Deep-fried pheasant wings

1. Remove the wing pieces from the braising casserole; the leg quarters can continue cooking if they’re not yet done.
2. Heat about a centimetre of oil in a small pan and fry the pheasant wing pieces until crisp and golden. Drain on absorbent paper and keep warm.

Warm two plates for service.

Make the sauce:

• Strain the stock and reduce it until about one cup remains.
• Add a good glug of ruby port and two peeled, whole, smashed garlic cloves and reduce further to a thick sauce.
• Remove the garlic. Whisk in a few knobs of butter to make a glossy sauce.
• Taste and adjust seasoning.

Make the bed of vegetables:

• Brown the lardons in a small fry pan over a moderate heat.
• Deglaze with the Balsamic vinegar, then add the cabbage and sauté until softened, coating the leaves.
• Taste and season.

Assemble the dish:

• Make a bed of Savoy cabbage and lardon mixture on your two warm plates. Use a ring if you have one to make a nice, neat bed. Remove the braising legs from the oven and place on top of the cabbage bed.
• Carefully unwrap the roulades and dispose of the cling film/plastic wrap. Roll each roulade in two pieces of Parma ham. Gently fry the wrapped roulades in butter and olive oil until browned. Cut on the bias and arrange artfully on each plate.
• Place one Savoy cabbage bundle on each plate.
• Arrange two wing pieces on each plate.
• Spoon some sauce over the roulades and over the plates.
• Serve your Pheasant Four Ways with a lovely glass of Pinot Noir such as a Savigny-les-Beaune.

Ah, yes. Remember what I said about no waste? Heat the mirepoix, braising liquid and any leftover stock in your Thermomix and blend to make a lovely, fragrant soup for another meal. Voilà: Pheasant Five Ways!

Bon appétit !

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